A Comprehensive Review of Phase-Averaged and Phase-Resolving Wave Models for Coastal Modeling Applications

Fuente: arXiv
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Main Authors: Ferdaus, Md Meftahul, Cooper, Nathan Alton, Schmidt, Austin B., Pokhrel, Pujan, Ioup, Elias, Abdelguerfi, Mahdi, Simeonov, Julian
Format: Preprint
Published: 2025
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author Ferdaus, Md Meftahul
Cooper, Nathan Alton
Schmidt, Austin B.
Pokhrel, Pujan
Ioup, Elias
Abdelguerfi, Mahdi
Simeonov, Julian
author_facet Ferdaus, Md Meftahul
Cooper, Nathan Alton
Schmidt, Austin B.
Pokhrel, Pujan
Ioup, Elias
Abdelguerfi, Mahdi
Simeonov, Julian
contents Predicting ocean wave behavior is challenging due to the difficulty in choosing suitable numerical models among many with varying capabilities. This review examines the development and performance of numerical wave models in coastal engineering and oceanography, focusing on the difference between phase-averaged spectral models and phase-resolving models. We evaluate the formulation, governing equations, and methods of widely used third-generation phase-averaged spectral models (SWAN, WAVEWATCH III, MIKE 21 SW, TOMAWAC, and WAM) alongside advanced phase-resolving models (FUNWAVE, SWASH, COULWAVE, and NHWAVE) that employ Boussinesq-type equations and non-hydrostatic formulations. The review begins with early parameterized models and progresses to contemporary third-generation models, which solve the wave action conservation equation with few spectral constraints. A comparison of the models' efficiency, accuracy in nearshore conditions, ability to resolve nonlinear wave-wave interaction, simulate wave breaking, diffraction, and wave-current interactions is provided. Applications in operational forecasting, extreme event simulation, coastal structure design, and assessing climate change impacts are discussed. The validation of these models and the statistical metrics and intercomparison studies used are addressed. A discussion of the limitations in computational scalability, physics parameterization, and model coupling is provided, along with emerging trends in high-resolution modeling and hybrid models. This review guides researchers in evaluating which models to use in coastal and oceanographic research.
format Preprint
id arxiv_https___arxiv_org_abs_2511_21856
institution arXiv
publishDate 2025
record_format arxiv
spellingShingle A Comprehensive Review of Phase-Averaged and Phase-Resolving Wave Models for Coastal Modeling Applications
Ferdaus, Md Meftahul
Cooper, Nathan Alton
Schmidt, Austin B.
Pokhrel, Pujan
Ioup, Elias
Abdelguerfi, Mahdi
Simeonov, Julian
Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics
Numerical Analysis
Predicting ocean wave behavior is challenging due to the difficulty in choosing suitable numerical models among many with varying capabilities. This review examines the development and performance of numerical wave models in coastal engineering and oceanography, focusing on the difference between phase-averaged spectral models and phase-resolving models. We evaluate the formulation, governing equations, and methods of widely used third-generation phase-averaged spectral models (SWAN, WAVEWATCH III, MIKE 21 SW, TOMAWAC, and WAM) alongside advanced phase-resolving models (FUNWAVE, SWASH, COULWAVE, and NHWAVE) that employ Boussinesq-type equations and non-hydrostatic formulations. The review begins with early parameterized models and progresses to contemporary third-generation models, which solve the wave action conservation equation with few spectral constraints. A comparison of the models' efficiency, accuracy in nearshore conditions, ability to resolve nonlinear wave-wave interaction, simulate wave breaking, diffraction, and wave-current interactions is provided. Applications in operational forecasting, extreme event simulation, coastal structure design, and assessing climate change impacts are discussed. The validation of these models and the statistical metrics and intercomparison studies used are addressed. A discussion of the limitations in computational scalability, physics parameterization, and model coupling is provided, along with emerging trends in high-resolution modeling and hybrid models. This review guides researchers in evaluating which models to use in coastal and oceanographic research.
title A Comprehensive Review of Phase-Averaged and Phase-Resolving Wave Models for Coastal Modeling Applications
topic Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics
Numerical Analysis
url https://arxiv.org/abs/2511.21856