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Main Author: Simson, Päivo
Format: Preprint
Published: 2026
Subjects:
Online Access:https://arxiv.org/abs/2605.24997
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author Simson, Päivo
author_facet Simson, Päivo
contents A unidirectional reduction of the deep-water surface gravity wave problem is derived in physical space using real variables. By employing a near-identity canonical transformation, cubic interactions are eliminated from the Hamiltonian, with an exact elimination of second- and third-order bound waves. A projection operator is then constructed to isolate the unidirectional, rightward-propagating dynamics at the next asymptotic order, yielding a single nonlocal evolution equation. The model admits the third-order Stokes wave as an exact monochromatic solution, and a multiple-scales analysis recovers the Dysthe envelope equation, including the nonlocal mean-flow coupling, without requiring an auxiliary boundary value problem. Dropping four sub-leading nonlinear terms that vanish on the resonant manifold yields a more compact variant suitable for analytical study. Numerical validations demonstrate that both formulations faithfully reproduce the full Euler dynamics through modulational-instability recurrence and broadband focusing up to moderate wave steepness.
format Preprint
id arxiv_https___arxiv_org_abs_2605_24997
institution arXiv
publishDate 2026
record_format arxiv
spellingShingle A real-variable unidirectional reduction of deep-water gravity waves
Simson, Päivo
Fluid Dynamics
A unidirectional reduction of the deep-water surface gravity wave problem is derived in physical space using real variables. By employing a near-identity canonical transformation, cubic interactions are eliminated from the Hamiltonian, with an exact elimination of second- and third-order bound waves. A projection operator is then constructed to isolate the unidirectional, rightward-propagating dynamics at the next asymptotic order, yielding a single nonlocal evolution equation. The model admits the third-order Stokes wave as an exact monochromatic solution, and a multiple-scales analysis recovers the Dysthe envelope equation, including the nonlocal mean-flow coupling, without requiring an auxiliary boundary value problem. Dropping four sub-leading nonlinear terms that vanish on the resonant manifold yields a more compact variant suitable for analytical study. Numerical validations demonstrate that both formulations faithfully reproduce the full Euler dynamics through modulational-instability recurrence and broadband focusing up to moderate wave steepness.
title A real-variable unidirectional reduction of deep-water gravity waves
topic Fluid Dynamics
url https://arxiv.org/abs/2605.24997